There are many different species of ant which can become pests. If you need help getting rid of ants, call us. We will identify the particular ant you are seeing and then do a thorough inspection to determine all access points. We will tailor a control program to your particular situation. Because ants encountered inside the home are typically foraging for food, it is important to keep dishes clean, remove open foods and place them in well sealed containers, wipe counter tops and sweep or vacuum kitchen floors regularly. Also keep branches of trees and shrubs from touching the siding of the house. They provide an easy way for the ants to get up high on your siding where they may find a way of getting inside. Remove anything around your house that could serve as a nesting site for ants such as lumber, firewood, or any excess debris. Be aware that heavy ground cover such as ivy and thick mulch provide a perfect nesting site for ants. If ants are a problem for you, you may need to consider replacing these ground coverings with something less inviting to ants. Check your house from the outside to make sure there are no cracks or holes through which ants could enter your house. Caulk any cracks through which ants could enter your house from the outside. Few ant problems are solved without chemical control of some kind, but these are some non-chemical control measures which you can take to minimize your problem. Simplify all this by just giving us a call, and let us take care of the ants for you.
Earwigs prefer to live in cooler, damp or wet areas, usually under decaying vegetation outside where there is an ample supply of food. As with any insect pest, it is best to prevent earwigs rather than waiting until the infestation requires extensive control. Earwigs typically feed on live sprouts or decaying vegetation and in rare cases, some species are predators. Earwigs live and reproduce in moist or wet areas typically outside where there is an abundance of decaying vegetation. Identification of earwigs and their living environment are important as well. Most life stages of earwigs have the tell tale forceps, or pincers, extending from the abdomen. Removing moisture and decaying vegetation will make conditions less hospitable for earwigs and will reduce their numbers. Another way to reduce the moisture is to make sure that if any irrigation or watering is occurring in the area, either automatic or manual, that the soil is not overwatered. Make sure that the door sweeps on the bottom of the doors fit tightly and that all foundation points do not have cracks. Install screens on weep holes in brick. Make sure that all window screens fit securely. If you continue to have a problem, just give us a call and we will handle it for you.
If you have ticks/fleas in your house and you have cats or dogs, applying Frontline to your animal will go a long way toward controlling the ticks/fleas in your house. Adult fleas prefer to stay on the host whenever possible. Frontline kills most of the fleas that go onto your cat or dog to have a blood meal. After you apply the Frontline on your animal, it will usually kill most of the fleas on him or her. Then you have to wait for all of the eggs that have been dispersed around your house to hatch, and for the fleas to go through their larval and pupae stages. This process can take up to four months depending on various conditions. It may be necessary to continue giving your animal Frontline during that period of time. Consult your veterinarian. If you are experiencing a tick/flea problem and you do not have any animals, and/or don’t want to bother with the hassle, you need W² to inspect the areas and determine the right solution for you. One possible solution can include applying a pesticide and an insect growth regulator to all of the floor areas of the house, especially the areas where the problems seem to be occurring the most. This process has many steps involved and can be tailored to your specific needs, just call W² and let us do the rest for you.
Before you start experiencing rodent problems, sometimes the simplest solutions can be followed in order to prevent rodent infestations. Garbage should be kept in garbage containers that have tight lids that seal the garbage in completely. Mice and other rodents are always on the lookout for a free meal, so make sure you are not the one supplying it. Make sure all screens, windows, and doors are snug and fit tightly when closed. Doors are especially important, as rodents will often enter homes through the bottom of a door if there is enough space. Door sweeps should be installed if the space is 1/4 inch wide or larger. The same goes for garage doors, especially when the garage is attached to your house. Another good idea is to keep pet food in sealed Tupperware containers. These containers are rodent proof and will keep rodents from prying their teeth into your pet’s food and contaminating it. Pet food and water should also not be kept out overnight. If rodents know where there is a food or water source that is in continual supply, they will get comfortable in and around your home and will not want to leave. The same goes for human food. All food supplies should be stored in rodent proof containers and never leave food out at night. The typical rodent can be kept out for good without using baits or poisons. W² specializes in proven techniques that seal up all potential rodent entry points that will keep rodents out for good. Our licensed pest control technician will first conduct a thorough rodent inspection on the outside of your home, taking note of possible and obvious rodent entrances. Most common rodents only need 1/4 inch gap or opening to enter your home, so all gaps, cracks, holes, and openings bigger than this size must be sealed in order to eliminate the rodents completely. All openings where rodents can enter the house, such as cracks, pipe voids, around utility wires, and vents should be sealed shut. Our technicians are well equipped to provide these rodent control and prevention services, we want to seal these areas for you to prevent rodents from further intruding on your privacy. This is our first step in rodent control and prevention, other steps would be determined through our thorough inspection service. If you want to prevent rodents from invading your home, or think your house might already be invaded, give W² a call and let us handle it for you.
You are most likely to be at our website looking at the subterranean termite because you have just experienced a swarm. In southern California subterranean termites typically swarm in the spring time, usually on a hot day just after a couple days of rain. When subterranean termites swarm they are setting out to relocate and start a new colony. A typical swarm can range from ten to hundreds of termites, and the swarms will usually gather in areas of abundant light (window sills, light fixtures, rooms with abundant light). When you have subterranean termite swarms inside your home, it is most likely the termites have already infested your home. Subterranean termite colonies originate underground and typically invade homes, through foraging, to find food (wood, paper, sheetrock). Subterranean termites build mud tubes by grabbing particles of soil with their mouths and pasting these particles in uniformity, building tunnels they will then travel throughout. These termites will build these tubes to enter your home to feed. Usually termites will enter your home through plumbing entrances, cracks in the slab foundation, or on the outside of your house where the soil meets the siding. If your house is built with a substructure (crawl space) underneath, the termites will enter by tunneling up the foundation walls, or by using the pier posts and or the plumbing pipes. The subterranean termite colonies are very large and can attack a structure in more then one location. Subterranean termites love moist soil and can forage great lengths to eat. A few steps you can take to lessen the chances you will be invaded by subterranean termites. First, make sure you don’t have any plumbing leaks, even the smallest plumbing leak can result in moisture buildup in the soil which subterranean termites love. Second, if you are ever replacing flooring and notice any cracks in the slab foundation make sure to repair/seal these cracks. Third, make sure the soil on the exterior of your house in not in direct contact with the siding, there should be at least a two inch gap between the soil and the siding, and don’t overwater any soil that is close to the siding. For houses with Substructures, make sure the soil underneath your house is not too moist and make sure there is plenty of ventilation. Remove any cellulose (wood) debris that are in direct contact with the soil, and do periodic inspections. Whether your house is on a slab foundation or has a substructure, the best advice I can give you is to have a professional inspection done annually. If you have recently experienced a swarm or just want an inspection give W² a call and let us set up a free no hassle inspection to give you piece of mind.
Unlike subterranean termites which build colonies in the soil, drywood termite colonies do not need contact with soil, and don’t need very much moisture at all. As their name suggests, drywood termites occur in dry wood that usually is above ground level. Drywood termites build colonies in structural wood, fence and utility posts, furniture, moldings, door and window frames, etc. Since colonies are commonly constructed inside wood, finding these termites can be difficult during routine pest and termite inspections. Therefore, one of the best ways to identify an active infestation is the presence of their fecal pellets. This presence is tricky though, because if you had an infestation of drywood termites eradicated from your house the fecal pellets will likely remain. Therefore when the fecal pellets dry out and become loose inside the wood member they can sometimes fall out through open galleries, creating a false presence of an active infestation. It is best to always have a licensed inspector determine live activity or not. There are a few steps to prevent drywood termites, mainly keeping them from getting into your house in the first place. Make sure all window screens are intact, and are being used. Make sure all attic vents have screening, as well as all substructure vents. Make sure to keep exterior wood members sealed and painted at all times, and pay close attention to wood members that are in direct contact with the elements, (patio covers, fences, and decks). Wood members outside that get direct exposure to the elements should be re-painted/stained every 2-3 years. There are also a few products out there designed to prevent drywood termites, (Tim-Bor, Bora care, and other wood preservatives). These products can be applied to bare lumber prior to staining or painting, (follow label directions), to prevent drywood termites. Once drywood termites have infested your house the treatment options can vary, from localized treatment, to full house fumigation. The treatment determination can only be made after an inspection is done, and the presence of drywood termites has been identified. We recommend an inspection annually in order to catch small infestations before they become large infestations and cause serious damage. W² offers solutions for all your drywood termite concerns, please schedule a free inspection today.
